The Family Travel Site Where Parents and Kids Find
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NYC Platinum Screen Printing If you can touch it we can print it. 45 Maujer St Brooklyn, NY 11206 Get a free quote: Voice: 347.968.3193 |
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Designer Prints New York. Wide format digital output and screen printing on demand. |
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SQUEGY'S Dermagraphic Art and Body Piercing 89 Broadway Jim Thorpe, Pa (570) 325-9422 |
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The World of Motor Sports Everything and Anything on Land and Sea A large “WORLD” racing Information and Motor Sport links Directory. |
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For all your nut,bolt and fastener needs.
P.O. Box 540 RT. 209 Sciota, Pa. 18364 1-800-4-VEN-MAR |
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Specializing in electronics & electrical inboard & outboard
gas & diesel underwater service
Joe Parker Key Largo, Fla. (305) 451-2290 |
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BLACK'S RACING
PROMOTIONS Our Business is advertising and promoting your company through racing YOUR AD HERE JOIN OUR RACE TEAM See Our Services and Promotions Page Call (570) 992-7369 |
 LEGENDS FAQ and TIPS PAGE: This page is dedicated to promoting the Legends Series of racing. We invite everyone that we talk with to join the "Wild World" of Legends Series Racing. This page has information for those who know nothing about Legends Racing to those seasoned competitors looking for the latest gadgets, services, or new and used parts for sale. Yes it is Legends with an "s" FAQ -- Most Frequently Asked Questions. What is a Legends Race car? How fast do they go? How much? Where do they race them? Who races them? Getting started: Buying new or used. There are so many questions about Legends cars and racing that I would need to write a book. Instead I wrote a short story integrating your new experience with a whole bunch of information. However we are not the only ones on the internet that answers or have written about these questions. We list a few links for additional information and different writing styles at the end of our FAQ article. What is a Legends Race car? They are 5/8 scale replicas of the 1930's and early 1940's sedans and coupes manufactured by 600 Racing in Harrisburg, North Carolina. This link will take you to their History page.Who, better then the manufacturer of these cars to tell you everything about it's history. Just hit your back button to return. Don't get lost. How fast do they go? This is my favorite question. These cars are certainly awesome looking cars, and that is what got my attention and peaked my interest in the series. I didn't ask how fast, I jumped right to where can I get one? How fast do you ask? Hold on to your hat, here is the answer. With a 2:50 rear these cars top out at 140 mph. Legends race cars are all race car. Remember this "ALL LEGENDS RACE CARS GO FAST". How much do they cost? This question has depth to it. Initial costs, actual racing costs and savings costs. 600 Racing has put together a racing series with strict rules which pretty much say "keep your tinkering hands off the car." This is a big blessing because it keeps the cost of racing down. The tire rule, the sealed engine rule, the shock rule, the keep your hands off the chassis rule saves everybody in this series big bucks. A low ball figure everyone saves competing in this series is $10,000.00 a year. You do not need to keep up with the latest tricks, parts, and designs. You do not need to have 30 tires of different compounds and sizes. Sure 600 Racing profits from this series. I say god bless them. Racing in any series is not cheap. Racing in the Legends Series is affordable to almost anyone. The money race to keep up with your competitors does not exist. Thank you 600 Racing. The base cost of all new Legends series cars is $12,995.00 plus the taxes of your State. This can be a healthy $500 to $1000 shock when totaling the bill so keep it in mind. You then will be encouraged to add an external oil cooler and filter plus a Tach and gauges. The external oil cooler is a must, external oil filter a convenience, the Tach is a plus, any other gauges are optional. If you race in N.J. you will need to add a N.J. kit. I recommend you install the NJ Kit wherever you race. Some tracks in the US require mufflers, check with your dealer. If you plan on racing on the road course you need to install the required road course equipment. Expect your total to be $15,000.00. The dealer delivered the car and it is sitting in you garage. Now you need to make it look like a race car, with a jazzy paint job, decals, and lettering. Do it yourself or call your friends in the biz or expect to pay out another $500.00 to $1000.00. Note: These cars come in different colors at no extra cost. No painting really required. Wow! You have the car looking sharp and ready to go racing. Hold on there, you need more stuff. If you are new to racing you will need safety gear; fire suit, gloves, helmet, shoes, neck brace, nomex underwear and sox. You are looking at $800.00 to $1000.00. Fancy stuff, much more. (Note: You must have the proper SFI rated gear and Snell rated racing helmet. No motorcycle or M rated helmets) Now you need to get it to the track. If you already have a trailer you are in business. If you don't, there are many options. They make units that slide in your pickup bed that will haul the car, inexpensive open trailers to very expensive enclosed trailers. I suggest a 16' enclosed trailer. You are looking at $3000.00 to $5000.00 for a good enclosed trailer. Get a car hauling trailer. They are lower to the ground and the rear door comes down as a loading ramp. You can go crazy spending a lot of money painting and outfitting a trailer. What? You don't even have a truck to pull the trailer! You are on your own here. We know from experience bigger is better. Diesel is better than gas. An F 250 or Dodge 2500 series or equivalent is what you are looking for. Get what you can afford and add the price to your racing cost. Phew! The wife is starting to get a little ticked off about now, but the race car looks great, the trailer is finally lettered, you look spiffy in your new racing gear, and you are getting a lot of good comments about your new truck from neighbors and friends. Hey! Lets load up and go racing. Hold it. Not yet. Go back to the bank. You need some specialty tools to set the car up to be competitive. We are not talking about welders, portable generators, air compressors, or normal hand tools here. We are talking scales, caster/camber gauges and a toe in/toe out gauge. Add about $2000.00 for good stuff. The wife just got back from shopping with a new stopwatch, a racing clip board, and new video camera to record this momentous occasion. There went another $1.000.00. Your INEX membership cards arrived for you and your wife at a cost of $200.00. Well that is the big stuff, but you are not done spending yet and you never will be. NOW you are ready to load up and go racing. But don't only load up the race car, load up your wallet with cash also. When you get to the track your INEX card may get you in but you will still need to buy pit passes to get in the pits. The average cost of pit passes is $15.00 to $25.00 each, depending on the track. If the track doesn't honor the Inex membership you may need to buy a track membership or pit license which is a once and done fee. We have paid as low as $5.00 to as high as $30.00 for these licenses. There may also be a yearly local series membership fee at another $20.00 to $25.00 and a car registration fee of $5.00. Well, you signed in. paid your fees and you are in the pits. Find a place to park and unload the car. Find the car registration shack and sign the car in. Oh yea, that is where you pay the car registration fee. Time to go racing. You crashed in the heat race? Take out that wallet loaded with cash and run to the parts truck and buy new parts. Rush back to the car and get it ready for the B main or the feature. Take a moment and a deep breath and look around. Watch all the other racing teams doing the same thing. WELCOME TO RACING. Glad to have you on board. Come race with us. Where do they race Legends cars? They race them here, they race them there, they race Legends cars everywhere. There are three types of tracks they race legends cars on; road courses, asphalt oval, and dirt ovals. Inex boasts they sanctioned over 4000 events in 2003. That is a lot of racing. There are over 200 tracks throughout the Us, Canada and Europe that race Legends cars. 600 Racing posts a list on their web site. This list is not always up to date or accurate so it is best also to check with your local dealer or the dealer in the area you wish to race in. What is great about Legends car racing is you can go traveling with the race car and no matter where you race, the rules and competition are the same, just different people. Legends people are great, friendly and helpful. Many times I have seen other pit crews swarm around a competitors car getting it ready to compete in the next event. Our team has over 40 Races scheduled for 2004. This does not include any national events. More information: Bob Graham III, Alpine California "LEGENDS FORCE" a great name for a Legends web site. Lots of useful educational tech information plus some rule tips. A GREAT LEGENDS SITE TO VISIT. Bob does a great job writing. Legends Force STOP DREAMING -- START RACING First lets dispel some hype you will see on used Legends car ads. 1. THIS CAR IS FAST. (remember this. All Legends cars are fast.) 2. THIS CAR WON THE NATIONAL, STATE, TRACK CHAMPIONSHIP or WON 10 FEATURES. (Heads up: That car did not win anything. The driver and his pit crew did. All Legends cars are the same. There is only one difference. The roll cage for the coupe style is different then the roll cage for the sedan style. The base frame and everything else is the same. There are differences from car to car and that is with add ons and/or upgrades.) 3. A MYTH: I said this myself when I started to look for a Legends car but soon realized its folly. "I would rather buy a used car and learn to drive then crash or wreck a new one while learning." (Pay special attention: Here is the truth. It cost exactly the same to repair the same damage on a used car as it does on a new car.) 4. WORD OF CAUTION: Loose Nuts Racing has a great quote. When buying a used Legends car you are dealing with a used car sales person. I agree. However all the people I have met in the Legends series are a cut above and are honest people but always keep that quote in the back of your mind and keep things in prospective. 5. SPECIAL NOTE: Legends cars are holding their value. A used Legends car may be worth more then a new car simply because of the add ons and A-1 condition of the car. (These do not make the car go faster or handle any better. So don't get caught up with add on hype, but some of these features are nice to have.) What should you do? Buy new or used: PLAN A. We recommend buying a new car right from the start. You have choice of body style and color. Add on the oil cooler your dealer recommends. Add a tach if you want one. We recommend adding the NJ kit no matter where you race and if you plan on doing road racing you will need to add the road racing kit and upgrades. This way you start off with all new stuff and not someone else's headaches. PLAN B. Our next recommendation is buying the whole deal from someone leaving the sport for various reasons. The car, trailer, extra parts, special tools etc. You can save yourself some serious money doing this. Before you do this make sure you know what you are buying. Buying just a used Legends car. We have seen only a few deals here. We certainly don't condemn anyone from getting the max. value for their car, as a mater of fact we encourage it. There are several things to look out for. The biggest expense is the motor at $4000.00 plus. These are hearty motors and take a lot of abuse but they don't last forever. Remember this is a race car and nothing is guaranteed. The next big expense is the frame $1,500.00. We have track tested this frame many times. We have hit the wall, end over ended it, flipped and rolled it, we have been hit hard several times plus many other crunches and bangs. The main roll cage and frame stayed square. We have replaced the front clip and rear dog ears. Just be aware some people have bent these frames. If you find a running Legends car for less then $8,500.00 buy it. You found yourself a deal. If you get extra parts, an even better deal. A short story. Beware of the Legends team selling their car, and not leaving the sport, for a high price with the hype of wins, championships, and track speed records. Look at the laundry list of add ons and upgrades with a critical eye. Just remember the car did not win those races the driver and his setup team won those races and they certainly have every right to brag of their accomplishments. They will go and buy a new car with your hard earned money, show up at the track and kick your butt just because they are good. You are going to be racing around in their used car. They may not even invite you to their good fortune party. So use your judgment. If you are new to Legends we recommend you go to plan A above. The big bonus of buying used. The setup information and driving style. Unfortunately 2000 plus Legends drivers there are 2000 plus setups. But it is a place to start. Buying a used Legends Race car is like buying any used car or used object. A pristine Legends car with a lot of ad ons can be worth more then a new Legends car but not more than a new car with the same ad ons. There are several questions to ask first. First CAUTION: Buyer beware: All LEGENDS cars are TITLED by 600 Racing. Before you purchase or put any money down on a Legends race car, CONTACT the titling clerk at 600 Racing in NC. (704) 455-3896 They will verify, 1. Seller is actual owner. All Legends cars come with a title and certificate of origin. 2. There are no liens against the car. These titles can be encumbered just like any car title. 3. The chassis has been upgraded. 600 Racing has a record of the mandatory 2000 chassis upgrade. They will be able to tell you if it has been done. Without a valid title and 2000 chassis upgrade you will be denied entry to all INEX events. For complete title information and release forms go to: 600 Racing Title Information Some history on the frame. 600 racing began production of Legends cars in 1992. From 1992 to 1998 these cars were produced with a slightly smaller gauge steel frame now known as the old frame. The new frames are known as y2k or 2000 compliant. These frames were available since 1998 which gave everyone ample time to upgrade their chassis. The mandatory change was required at the start of the 2000 racing season. 600 Racing title department has a complete record of all upgrades. There are still cars out there and being sold with old frames. This does not mean a good deal could not be made, just remember you will need to buy and install a new frame. These frames come complete with roll cage and frame rails ready to bolt on the suspension parts, motor and body parts. There is no welding or cutting required to change a frame just some time consuming labor. A $1,500.00 plus expenditure plus labor. More mandatory changes to be aware of. Bilstein shocks. All Legends cars need to use INEX approved Bilstein shocks purchased through 600 Racing. Be informed that the Carrera shocks are not legal and will need to be replaced at $400.00 plus. It is hard to look through the coil springs but do the best you can and check for any dents in the shock body and see if the shaft is bent. Run the shocks through compression and rebound to check for binding. Mandatory fuel cell change. The old 4" opening fuel cell is no longer allowed as of 2004. Not mandatory changes. Front spindles were originally steel spindles. These are no longer available but you can still use them. The new spindles are aluminum and have a few advantages over the steel spindles. The motor. Yamaha FJ 1200 unsealed or the Yamaha Blitz 4 1250 sealed motor.The unsealed motors you can repair and rebuild yourself. The sealed motors require an INEX certified engine shop to work on the motor. We don't want to scare anybody but the truth is motor costs run from $150.00 to $200.00 per race. So take into account how many races were run on the motor. The motor will be your biggest up keep expense but it is no where near other similar series simply because you need to keep it stock. The most you can do here is listen to the motor for knocks, and other odd noises. Check the exhaust for smoke, visual oil leaks, and how smooth it runs through the throttle range and popping in the carbs or exhaust. Tires. If the car you are looking at has new tires you are fine. Although it is required we all run the same tire, one point you should be aware of. If the car's tires were run on the asphalt and you plan on running on the dirt you will need to buy new tires. If the car was a dirt car and you are going to run on the asphalt these tires will be ok but you may need to have the tires cut. Just a little extra added expense. Look for cuts, broken cords, damaged and bent rims that sort of thing. Just another thing to consider when determining a good price and negotiating a deal. The rest of the car. When buying used you are buying used unless the seller has replaced things with new parts which is common practice. Heims ends, brakes, radius rods etc. These are what is known as nickel and dime items, but if they haven't been replaced, as a total it becomes a nice chunk of change. The body is of no concern unless it is really rough. These are easy to repair with some fiberglass resin and matting plus some bondo to smooth things out. Actually there are only two other things to be concerned about. The steering box and rearend. I'll mention the oil cooling system last. Both the steering box and rearend can only really be inspected by tearing them apart. This is not going to happen for the most part. So you are stuck with looking for slop due to wear. The steering box is about as simple as they get and is not problematic. The housing can be damaged ( cracked) and the mounting bolts can be stripped. Both these problems are rare but are possibilities and expensive to fix, just something to keep in mind. Slop comes from bushing wear an easy inexpensive fix or the ends of the rack and pinion steering arm ends are loose. Again an easy fix. However when running the steering from rack to rack and it is loose in the middle and gets tighter run it left to right it indicates the rack and pinion is worn. You can race with this condition but the ideal is to have smooth steering through the whole range. The rear end: Not tearing the rear end apart is like buying a pig in a poke. i.e. (a blind bargain; something bought or bargained for, without the quality or the value being known.) There are lots of worms that can be hidden in a rear end. A simple check without ripping things apart is to jack up the car under the rear. Take the car out of gear and spin the wheels around. If the brakes are adjusted tight you may need to back off the adjustment some. If the wheels spin freely with no binding anywhere this is a good indication the housing isn't bent, the axles are not bent, and some problems with the differential do not exist. Next grab the wheel and rack it back and forth. This will give you an indication that the differential is not worn and or the spider gears are welded. None of this tells you what is inside the rear, only what may not be a problem with the rear. It will not tell you if teeth are missing from the differential, the welds on the spider gears are cracked, or the axles are twisted. Visual inspection will reveal oil leaks from seals, or cracks. On the whole the rear is a hearty animal. They may bend due to crashing, the axles twist and break from the wheel leaving the ground and coming back down under power. A rough dirt track also plays havoc with axles. The oil cooler. The oil cooler is the most important system on the car. This is the system that will get you an extra 10 races from your motor. These systems are not standard and everyone does their own thing and mostly they all work to one degree of efficiency or another. The larger cooling cores and ones with fans seem to work the best. The best you can do here is take the seller at his word. There are things you can look for. Leaks, rubbed lines, bent brackets and twisted coolers, things of that nature. If it has a fan, does it work, is it quite and vibration free. (The only thing to look out for is if the seller took the cooler off the car, put it on a new car and put an older system on that he wasn't happy with.) To sum it all up: If you are not mechanically inclined find someone who is and better yet find someone who knows Legends cars. If you are mechanically inclined look the car over, don't go GA-GA over the paint job and sound of the motor. Use your judgement, intuition, and good sense. Learn in advance what parts cost so you can negotiate a fair deal. If you are buying a package deal look over the whole package. Are the parts new or used and how many? Are there specialty tools and gauges? If a trailer is included look it over and under. Be savvy. If you have any questions Contact Us, We will do the best to answer then. |
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For all your nut,bolt and fastener needs.
P.O. Box 540 RT. 209 Sciota, Pa. 18364 1-800-4-VEN-MAR |
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Specializing in electronics & electrical inboard & outboard
gas & diesel underwater service
Joe Parker Key Largo, Fla. (305) 451-2290 |
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BLACK'S RACING
PROMOTIONS Our Business is advertising and promoting your company through racing YOUR AD HERE JOIN OUR RACE TEAM See Our Services and Promotions Page Call (570) 992-7369 |
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The Family Travel Site Where Parents and Kids Find
Affordable Family Vacations!
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NYC Platinum Screen Printing If you can touch it we can print it. 45 Maujer St Brooklyn, NY 11206 Get a free quote: Voice: 347.968.3193 |
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Designer Prints New York. Wide format digital output and screen printing on demand. |
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SQUEGY'S
Dermagraphic Art and Body Piercing 89 Broadway Jim Thorpe, Pa (570) 325-9422 |
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The World of Motor Sports Everything and Anything on Land and Sea A large “WORLD” racing Information and Motor Sport links Directory. |